12.17.2007

sandrita's



When most of us are happy to sleep in at least until 7:00 am, Sandrita has already been awake and industrious for hours. Simply put, she loves to bake. Originally from Toronto and now living in Sayulita with her Mexican boyfriend, she found herself craving foods from home. Opening a bakery at the beginning of October not only satiated her own yearnings, but also helped to fill a culinary void felt by other gringos who have chosen to settle or spend longer periods of time there and are looking for a departure from the readily available tacos and tortas. Menu items include cinnamon buns with maple syrup glaze, spicy cornmeal cheese bread, daily cookies, tarts, pies, breads, pastries, muffins and, of course, good coffee. The day I dropped in she was also busy baking made-to-order pumpkin pies for American Thanksgiving and experimenting with a version of Asian rice noodle salad wraps.

Sandrita's Bakery & Cafe is located 2 1/2 blocks in from the beach in a sweet little courtyard she shares with Liberia Sayulita, a wonderful secondhand bookstore and internet cafe. Sandrita describes the cafe's decor as 'strawberry shortcake'. With all its baby pink and 'girlie' sensibilities, it really is....sweet.

pollos asada



Pollos Asada (grilled chicken) is one of those meals that will forever remain one of my all time favourite food memories. From what I can tell, this item is usually served only on Domingo (Sunday), which is also known in Mexico as family day. Ten years ago, my dad and I took a bus trip to Sayulita, arriving just in time to meet the dusty heat of midday and to see the women who had set up in the street under makeshift tarps, cooking half chickens over smoking grills made from vertically split oil drums. Served with potatoes and salad, this simple meal was so flavourful, so tasty and such a warm welcome for two hungry travellers. Real Mexican comfort food. Then the tarp came down and everyone went home....until next Sunday.

This last trip I arrived back in Sayulita on a Sunday morning. When I inquired to one of the locals, I was assured that Pollos Asada would be cooked and available later that same day, Domingo.

12.16.2007

the dinner goddess



I met the dinner goddess by chance, while drinking my morning coffee. I'd already seen her striking turquoise and red business card around town and loved the name. I was delighted to talk to Lila Shaw Lash, to learn about what made this Texan transplant tick in San Miguel de Allende. It didn't take long to mutually realize that, in many ways, we are kindred spirits. We both love the obvious things about food, the immediate, but are just as drawn to and deeply moved by the people, places, history, culture and stories around food. Lila calls it culinary archeology, a term which I love. We share a desire to express our eclectic culinary experiences and observations through more than just the food itself, and also share a joy for communication and storytelling; to pass on that which has touched and inspired us, in hopes that others may feel the same.

During her days (and likely some of her evenings, too), the Dinner Goddess is a personal chef and catering service available to clients in SMA, and also writes her monthly column in one of its newspapers, Atencion San Miguel, where she also serves as its assistant editor. Lila is extremely knowledgeable about the local food scene and generously willing to share what it has to offer. I was sorry to not have had more time during my travels, to pal around with her a bit and learn more about some of her favourites.

12.11.2007

sazon


Sorry....got a little side tracked there. Where was I? Oh yeah. Relaying some details about my recent Mexico trip....

Another activity I chose to do during my stay in San Miguel de Allende was to attend a cooking class. Sazon is a beautiful facility, offering all kinds of classes taught by a wide array of visiting and local chefs. The focus is most certainly Mexican, quite refined and elegant. The recipes, techniques and dishes are quite different from the popular, quick, cheap and easy street food I gravitated towards during most of my culinary mardi gras. It was exciting to be reminded that the world of authentic Mexican cuisine is stunningly rich and complex, while at the same time being simple and subtle. My day at Sazon turned me onto the fact that the world of modern Mexican cuisine is very much an exciting reawakening of culinary history, being celebrated by chefs from all over North America. Diana Kennedy, I learned, is certainly one of the biggest and best known contributors to this rediscovery. Now 84 years old, her list of published cookbooks is an impressive and inspiring body of work. The recipe below is from her book 'The Art of Mexican Cooking'. It was the first dish we made in class that day....light, delicate, and subtle.

Our class was lead by Chef Kirstin West, who relocated to San Miguel de Allende only 11 months prior, having been recruited from Chicago where she worked for American-cooking-Mexican chef / restauranteur Rick Bayless. One thing's for sure; there are a lot of people out there who are very excited to cook, eat and learn more about Mexican food.

Sopa de Fideo y Espinacas
(Vermicelli and Spinach Soup)

2 medium tomatoes, roughly chopped, unpeeled
1 garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
1/4 white onion, roughly chopped
small piece of chile serrano (optional)
1 tbsp lard or safflower oil
6 cups well seasoned chicken broth
1/2 lb spinach washed, stems removed, roughly chopped
sea salt to taste
2 medium eggs, separated
3 ounces fine vermicelli (dried)
3 tbsp finely grated queso anejo (optional- could sub with parmesan)
safflower oil for frying

Put the tomatoes, garlic, onion and optional fresh chile into a blender jay and blend until smooth. Heat the lard in a soup pot, add the blended ingredients and fry at medium heat, stirring from time to time and scraping the bottom of the pot, until reduced and thickened- about 4 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Add the spinach and stir for about 10 minutes. Taste for salt.

Meanwhile, beat the egg whites until stiff, but not dry. Beat in the yolks one at a time with a pinch of salt. When the yolks are well incorporated, crumble the uncooked vermicelli into the beaten eggs and add the optional cheese. Stir until the vermicelli is well coated with the egg.

In a frying pan, heat about 1/4" of safflower oil. When hot, add large spoonfuls of the egg, vermicelli mixure (make 12 of them, about 3" wide, in shapes similar to crab cakes or small hamburger patties). When they are pale golden brown on the underside-about 1 minute- turn them over and fry on the second side (if they become too brown, lower the heat). Drain on paper towel. There should be about 12. Place them in a single layer on the top of the broth and simmer, turning them carefully once so they do not break open- about 12-15 minutes. Serve in deep bowls, 2 tortas per person with a lot of broth.

12.02.2007

tuesday market







The next stop on my Mexico trip was San Miguel de Allende. This scenic interior town can be reached from Puerto Vallarta by bus; about a 12 hour ride north east via Guadalahara (I opted for the the 'overnight' time slot, so as not to lose a precious vacation day to travel time). I've enjoyed visits to SMA in the past, but this time I had an extra incentive to go; my friends Martial, Tara and her daughter, Maxine are living there these days. They are renting a house, working (Tara is a jewellery designer and Martial is a scientist, able to work remotely from his laptop, and Maxine attends a 'Waldorf' private school), befriending the locals, speaking excellent Spanish, driving through the cobblestone streets on their scooters and motorcycles, and living the life. I believe it is always a bonus to visit a place when you have friends already living there. Tara and Martial were fantastic hosts, really showing me a great time and sharing many of the wonderful things SMA has to offer.

One day Tara took me to the Tuesday Market, located just a short drive out of town, next to Plaza Real de Conde. I was keen to go, as I am a big fan of markets and any place selling used....anything. This sprawling open air flea market takes place all day every....you guessed it, Tuesday. You can buy everything here from fresh fruits and vegetables to used shoes and clothing, pirated c.d.s, expired license plates, chicken feet, bicycle repair parts, puppies, fish and meat. The market proved to be a super fun way to spend a few hours, ending with a delicious shared lunch of fresh batter-fried fish served with crunchy corn chips, fresh salad and lots of hot sauce. All that shopping can really make a gal hungry.

11.28.2007

magallane's tortas


sayulita torta

In many ways, the experience of eating a Mexican torta is quite similar to having great sex. Both induce all consuming, toe curling pleasure, are deeply satiating, yet one is often surprised by how quickly they are ready for, longing for more....

You can find these tasty sandwiches everywhere in Mexico, made with fresh baked, lightly toasted bollos (bread rolls) and filled with your choice of hot eggs, ham, pork, beef, sausage, chicken etc. The fixins include sliced tomato, avocado, onions, lettuce and juicy, spicy pickled chilies. Finally, the bollo is smeared with gobbs of mayonnaise. My description may not sound all that thrilling, but trust me, you haven't lived until you've sampled what I suspect Elvis would have enjoyed daily, had he only made the effort to travel a little further south.

The torta pictured above was, by far, the yummiest one I ate during my recent culinary mardi gras (and they were all really good). Located in Sayulita (about a 1 hour and 45 minute drive north of Puerto Vallarta), Magallane's is a typical example of a tiny little restaurant serving delicious, fresh food with big taste. By the way, this torta cost me a whopping 15 pesos (about $1.35 canadian).

11.27.2007

revolucion day



I was fortunate enough to be visiting the small beach town of Sayulita on November 20, the date when Mexico celebrates the anniversary of its Revolucion which first began back in 1910. It is rare that I share an experience here at gp that is not completely food focused, but this day is very important and very special to the Mexican people. And, holy Virgin of Guadalupe....was it ever a fiesta! I wish I had a recording to share with you. The live music that day was incredible, busting out with trombones, tubas, trumpets, clarinets and drums. The entire town showed up to celebrate and to cheer on (or to be a part of) a long parade as it snaked its way through the narrow streets. I was elated to trail at the back of the parade, at one point finding myself sandwiched between the live musicians and men on horseback. Click here to see more photos.

11.25.2007

benjo's


I stumbled upon this place my first morning in Puerto Vallarta. A small restaurant without signage, modestly yet cheerfully decorated, it somehow felt promising before I even stepped inside. Benjo's is owned by Evangilina Madedro, but her daughter Malena is the solid presence here. She does all of the cooking, and always greets her customers with a warm, welcoming smile. And can she cook. This is why I love these little places so much, why I am always seeking them out and returning to them again. It is where one is most likely to find the tastiest, freshest and most authentic food....cooked straight from the heart. Steeped in tradition and pride, yet void of pretention and ego; in my opinion, it is the ultimate in peasant fare.

When it comes to most things, I am reluctant to call myself an expert. But when it is regarding huevos rancheros, I know my *%$!?#. During my recent study in the field, the hands down top of the heap was clearly Malena's version. Starting with a layer of soft, fresh corn tortillas, two eggs cooked just enough to still allow their rich, marigold yokes to run thick when pierced with a fork, topped with a rich red tomato sauce (as opposed to the green chili version), and a few slices of fresh, locally made panella cheese....all made for a deliciously memorable meal. Served with tastey refried beans and a small, fresh side salad to provid the ultimate contrast in flavours, colours and textures, I was in rancheros heaven. Click here to see more photos.

11.24.2007

hola!



I'm back, feeling rested, revitalized, inspired and sun-kissed. It has been almost 10 years since I've had the great pleasure of visiting Mexico. Though there have been many changes since 1998, it remains as warm, friendly and welcoming as ever. The Mexican people have always been good to me, and their kindness, good humour and playfulness continued to greatly enrich my latest travel adventures. And the food!!!! Oh, my lord, did I eat. When living at home in Vancouver, I am known to be a very healthy and sensible eater. Daily fresh squeezed juice, ground flax, lots of fresh fruit and veggies, complex carbs, blah blah blah. But when in Rome or, in this case, west and central Mexico, I chose to bust out and celebrate my own little culinary mardi gras. Were I to eat this way at home, it would likely do me in. Yet, somehow, by combining the right levels of street food such as beef and pork tacos, greasy tortas (meat sandwiches with chilies and loads of mayonnaise), liquados (fruit milkshakes), hilados (ice cream), chicken stuffed tamales, and cold beer with just the right balance of sun exposure, constant smiles from perfect strangers, ocean swimming, siestas, and walking / perspiring (to the next tastey snack).....I felt great and came home weighing the same as before I left. I would never participate in such indulgent and uncharacteristic behaviour without the help of my trusty amigo, acidophilus. One a day definitely keeps the touristo away. This stuff is golden. Start taking it 1 or 2 days before the beginning of your trip and continue taking one capsule daily until your return for a healthy tummy and a delicious vacation.....stay tuned for my Mexican culinary experiences. Muy bien.

11.05.2007

off to mexico


After a hectic couple of months, I am leaving North America behind (for the next few weeks, anyway). Off to Mexico....back November 23. Bueno adiós.

Correction! I never knew this, but it turns out that Mexico actually is part of North America. News to me.